Life in the Surf

The weekend is here, and the burdens of the grueling work week have finally ended, leaving you with two days of freedom to explore the magnificent eight-hundred and forty miles of coastline that California has to offer. As you make your way down the beach, your feet are engulfed by the ardor of the little grains of sand. The sun is glistening, reflecting perfectly off the navy blue water as the waves crash in perfect sequence, creating a fury of foamy white-wash that’s just powerful enough to knock the kids off their feet. You then begin to look even closer. You see people standing on waves, blissfully gliding horizontally across it’s face as the white-wash chases them just as a cat chases a mouse. The wave-rider then falls, but the smile on their face is radiating feelings of happiness, and you become envious, and think, “I want to do that, it looks incredibly fun, but how do I start?”

Southern California is a hotbed for beginner surfers; there is no better place to dip your feet in the water, than this sanctuary of surfing. From the warm waters of San Diego, to the perfect wave in Malibu, and even to the legendary spot of Rincon you have endless choices of where to get started. The best thing to do in order to “hang ten” as soon as possible is to get a lesson. This is where you will learn the do’s and don'ts of surfing. Some of the best lessons are found in the Santa Monica area. Venice Beach and Manhattan Beach are two fantastic spots to start at. The next step following your lesson, will be to pick up a wetsuit and foam board. Then finally, get out there! Following your lesson, you will be more than eager to get back out to the water. After riding your first wave without an instructor you will feel euphoric, and just as if you were floating…. Oh wait you’re doing that.

The learning curve is nothing to fear. Your first board, which will be foam, will help you get a feel for the eccentricity of the dynamic waves. This type of board will make you a fearless wave-rider, and will build up your confidence to the point where you feel like you can surf fifteen-foot waves (don’t actually do that with a foam board). This newly renowned confidence will begin to benefit you in other ways. You will see yourself as a more outgoing individual, a trendsetter among your peers, and even become more productive at work (if you’re not skipping it to surf the waves). Your fears about talking to people in the water will quickly be set aside, and you will be able to talk surf with everyone in the water. You may even begin to do this at home, and if you really catch the surf fever, people at work. As your surfing experience begins to grow, you will understand that waves are not just waves. You will start to see them as an oxymoron. In the sense that the waves have a personality that evokes violence and ferocity, but at the same time giving you a feeling of ecstasy as you ride them.

The water is also a place where new friendships will emerge. If you hit it off in the water with someone you may meet a lifelong friend, a new surf adventure buddy, or make a connection to take your business to the next level. Although, everything mentioned in the latter is good and dandy, the truth of the matter is that surfing will allow you to find peace within yourself. Despite the talking and blabbering in the water, a feeling of solitude is felt. One where your life on land is practically forgotten for a few moments in time, and all you can think about is what wave you want next.


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